"Yesterday was a bit of an emotional roller coaster . We had planned to leave the boat ramp at 8 am with a solid crew of mates . However it got to 8.30am and it was just me and @snackchoi who had rocked up to head out with Matt Tildesley on the boat. The others were Mia with phones all turned off and we knew they had been out the night before playing @whatsonot show . We gave it till 8.40am and then headed off on the boat. It wasn’t till we got out of the barge and into the ocean that Charles Ward gave us a call and said he was up and that his phone had gone flat and we slept thru his alarm. After a debate we turned the boat around to go and wait for them to arrive. I was pretty rattled on this decision as the thought of perfect 10 foot pits plagued my mind. Eventually they rocked up and we were off.

Rocking up to stern it certainly wasn’t the sight we had expected to see with it being a fair bit smaller than predicted, heaps of people paddling and not many waves coming through. Despite this I was still amped to get out there after a bit of a stressful morning. I stuck it out for three hours until the crowd thinned and everyone had left. In the last hour of the afternoon it was just me and one other guy paddling the ocean hadn’t really coughed up anything of any note in a while until all of a sudden this bomb rolls thru out of no where .

I could hear the boys on the boat going nuts . It was a solid take off . With a huge wall rolling into the bay I wasn’t sure what was going to happen as it was all drawing up the reef and it looked so long taking off. I pulled in high and once I got through the first bit I knew the hard work was over and I could take in the view of this epic pit with the boys hooting in the channel. Fair to say it’s the best wave I’ve ever had in my life and a little message from the day was that sometimes things just work out in the end you just have to roll with it . " - Sam Thomas

Footage Boat - Mat Tildesley
Land - Owen Hackenburg

More posts